Have you really been to Burgundy if you haven’t had Chablis? I’d argue no.
Chablis isn’t just another white wine. It’s Burgundy at its most precise and uncompromising — lean, mineral, and unmistakably itself. The fact that it comes from the northern edge of the region only adds to its authority.
That alone makes a stop in Auxerre worthwhile. The medieval town sits on the Yonne, close enough to Chablis to feel its gravitational pull, and works perfectly as a day trip or strategic detour on a Burgundy itinerary.
Wine may be the headline, but Auxerre brings enough history to justify lingering.
Between tastings, there’s medieval architecture to take in and a handful of genuinely ancient monuments that reward closer looking.
It’s the kind of place where a day unfolds naturally: a bit of walking, a bit of history, a glass or two of something serious — a composition that feels very Burgundian indeed.
Mini History of Auxerre
Set along the Yonne, Auxerre’s history runs back to Gallo-Roman times, when it was known as Autissiodorum.
It wasn’t a minor outpost. The settlement prospered and, for a time, even served as a provincial capital of the Roman Empire.
Centuries later, Auxerre produced one of its most influential figures: Saint Germain. A former high ranking imperial official, he abandoned his secular career for the church, a pivot that still defines the city’s identity.
The abbey that bears his name holds his tomb and preserves something rarer still — full-scale 9th century frescoes, among the oldest surviving in France.
By the 5th century, Auxerre had a cathedral, followed by defensive walls that reinforced its regional importance.
Joan of Arc passed through the city twice. On her return, she was refused entry until she offered payment to the Auxerrois. It’s a detail that feels entirely on brand for a town that has always known its value.
Auxerre is also wine country. Its proximity to Chablis has long shaped both its economy and its character, anchoring the city in Burgundy’s broader agricultural and commercial history.
Things To Do In Auxerre
Marin Quarter
The Marin (or Quartier de la Marine) is Auxerre’s old river and port district, stretched along the Yonne below the cathedral and near Saint-Germain Abbey.
Historically, this was the working face of the city — docks, warehouses, trade — not the ceremonial or ecclesiastical core.
There are fragments of the late Roman wall in and around this area. It’s a nice spot for a river walk with views of the city and its monuments.
Head to the Pont Paul Bert (bridge) for the best view of Auxerre.
Ancienne Abbey St-Germain
Auxerre’s Benedictine abbey was founded in the 5th century by Queen Clotilde, wife of Clovis I, which places it among the earliest monastic foundations in Burgundy.
What survives today is layered rather than uniform, but the site’s significance is unmistakable.
The abbey church of Saint-Germain was largely rebuilt between the 13th and 15th centuries, replacing an earlier Carolingian structure.
It’s Gothic, but restrained. Sober in scale and decoration, with a ten sided Lady Chapel notable for its clarity of form and light rather than ornament.
The real reason to visit is below ground. The crypt preserves a Carolingian nave with heavy barrel vaulting that immediately feels older than the church above.
Its ambulatory is lined with red and ochre frescoes dating to around 850, among the oldest surviving wall paintings in France. They’re fragmentary and faded, but that fragility is part of their force.
This is one of the rare places where the early medieval world doesn’t feel abstract or reconstructed. It’s still physically present — quiet, solid, and legible.
Saint-Etienne Cathedral
The cathedral may not eclipse the abbey in historical weight, but it certainly knows how to command attention. It occupies one of the highest points in Auxerre, poised between the old Marin quarter and the clock tower, and it’s impossible to miss once you start climbing.
Dedicated to Saint Stephen, the cathedral dates largely to the 13th century, with roots that go deeper.
Its asymmetrical west façade is Flamboyant Gothic — dramatic, intricate, and visibly scarred by both the Wars of Religion and centuries of weathering.
The tympanum depicts the Coronation of the Virgin, a rare moment of serenity amid all that architectural turbulence.
Inside, the building settles into something more measured. The nave belongs to the 15th century, while the ambulatory is washed in blue and red stained glass illustrating scenes from Genesis.
Below it all lies the Romanesque crypt, dating from the 11th to 13th centuries, with frescoes that feel stubbornly ancient. Less decorative than documentary, and all the more compelling for it.
Clock Tower: Tour de l’Horloge
There is perhaps no structure more emblematic of Auxerre than the central clock tower.
Dating all the way back to the 15th century, the clock can be found in the heart of the Quartier de l’Horloge along a cobbled lane. It’s an astrological clock that shows the movement of the moon and sun.
At sunrise or sunset, it’s the perfect spot for snapping pictures.
Rue de la Draperie
Rue de la Draperie is one of Auxerre’s oldest streets and still reads as a medieval commercial artery.
Its name comes from the cloth trade, which once dominated this part of town, and the street retains that narrow, slightly compressed feel typical of working medieval streets.
Lined with half-timbered houses and stone facades, it runs downhill toward the river, visually and historically linking the upper town with the port area below.
It’s less about individual landmarks than atmosphere. Uneven paving, tight sightlines, and a sense of continuity that hasn’t been overly smoothed out.
Church of St-Eusebe
Just a few steps from Auxerre’s historic center, the Church of Saint-Eusèbe has been anchoring this part of the city since the 7th century.
It was founded by Saint Pallade, a local bishop. What you see today dates mainly to the 12th and 13th centuries, built in the Burgundian Romanesque style and open to visitors free of charge.
The exterior is quietly confident, especially the 12th century tower with its delicate multifoil arches.
Inside, the space opens up with rib vaulting in the Renaissance chancel, leading to a graceful axial chapel lit by 16th century stained glass. It’s an easy stop that rewards a short detour. Layered, legible, and very much part of Auxerre’s long architectural story.
Visit Chablis
Auxerre is the gateway to the Chablis wine region. The town of Chablis is just 11 miles down the road from Auxerre and is the capital of the prestigious wine growing region of lower Burgundy.
It still has a medieval feel, thanks to its heyday in the 16th century. And there’s a lovely late 12th century church.
But the real reason to visit is wine tasting. Here are some options:
- La Chablisienne – One of the most established tasting cellars in town with a well-organized tasting program and a broad range of Chablis wines representing many growers. It’s a great place to get a comprehensive overview of the appellation.
- Domaine Laroche – Located in a former monastery, this winery offers cellar tours plus tastings spanning Petit Chablis to Premier Cru and Grand Cru, with plenty of context about how the wines are made.
- Domaine Céline & Frédéric Gueguen – A family winery with a strong local reputation and excellent tastings that combine terroir explanation with a broad range of Chablis expressions.
If you have a car, you can drive 3 miles to Domaine Clotilde Davenne.
Be sure to book a tasting in English. Or try a wine and chocolate pairing or wine and oyster pairing there.
Tips For Visiting Auxerre
How To Get There:
From Paris (usually Gare de Bercy), the fastest trains take about 1:30 to 1:45, depending on the service. These are Intercités or TER trains, not TGV.
You can also book a full day tour to the Chablis region from Paris.
Where To Eat:
Boulangerie Pâtisserie Eric ROY is perfect for coffee, pastries, and afternoon tea.
For a proper Burgundian meal, check out La P’tite Beursaude or Auberge les Tilleuls.
Where To Stay:
Château Sainte Sabine is a lovely luxury chateau in the Auxois region.
Hôtel Les Maréchaux is one of the best reviewed central Auxerre hotels, with classic rooms, an outdoor pool, and a quiet park setting.
Hotel Le Maxime, BW Signature Collection is a four star riverside stay with a slightly more polished feel, bar and tasting cellar, and easy access to historic sights like the abbey and cathedral.
Just outside Auxerre lies the Château de la Resle. It’s a standout boutique chateau stay between Auxerre and Chablis, which combines historic architecture with contemporary design, a spa, pool, and excellent onsite dining.
Pro Tip:
Don’t expect a lot of English to be spoken. This is a more off the beaten path town. So brush up on your French pleasantries.
Auxerre’s market is held on Tuesday and Friday morning at Place de d’Arquebuse.
I hope you’ve enjoyed my guider to Auxerre. You may find these other Burgundy travel guides useful:
- 3 days in Burgundy itinerary
- One week in Burgundy itinerary
- Historic abbeys in Burgundy
- Things to do in Dijon
- Guide to Dijon’s Musée des Beaux-Arts
- Guide to Fontenay Abbey
- Things to do in Beaune
- Guide to Hotel Dieu
- Guide to Vezelay Abbey
- Guide To Semur-en-Auxois
- Guide to Flavigny-sur-Ozerain
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