Beynac-et-Cazenac was recently my base for a week in the Dordogne. And I couldn’t have asked for a better and more beautiful place to stay!
Beynac is a fairytale medieval town that looks like a sepia-toned film set. It’s ideally situated for taking day trips in the region.
Plus, it’s got an imposing castle — probably the best and most authentic one in the Dordogne.
The village is essentially vertical. From its base by the Dordogne River, you’ll meander through cobbled lanes and poke in and out of artisan shops and boutiques.
At the top, you’re treated to stunning views over the village, valley, and river. No wonder Beynac is one of France’s les plus beaux villages.
In this guide, I’ll give you a mini history of Beynac-et-Cazenac and tell you everything to do in one day.
Mini History Of Beynac-et-Cazenac
Beynac-et-Cazenac has roots dating back to the 12th century when the first barons of Beynac built the chateau.
After Baron Adhémar de Beynac died in 1189 without an heir, the castle was inherited by Richard the Lionheart, who was also the Duke of Aquitaine.
This strategically placed village on the Dordogne River marked the borderlands contested by the French and English during the Hundred Years’ War.
As the Duke of Aquitaine, Richard inherited the duchy from his mother, Eleanor, and also held Normandy.
The English Plantagenets controlled significant territories in what is now France and resisted paying allegiance to French monarchs, aiming instead for their claim to the French throne. This conflict made Beynac-et-Cazenac a crucial defensive stronghold.
The castle eventually returned to the Beynac family and remained with them even after the French victory in 1453. It stayed in the extended Beynac family until it was sold by a descendant in 1961.
One Day In Beynac-et-Cazenac Itinerary
9:00 AM – Breakfast at a Local Cafe
Start your day with a traditional French breakfast at a riverside cafe in Beynac. Or grab some pastries to go at one of the cute bakeries.
10:00 AM – Visit Chateau de Beynac
After you’re fueled up, prepare for a steep hike up to the brooding Chateau de Beynac, perched high on a cliff overlooking the Dordogne River.
In its heyday, the castle was a state of the art building. And it was on the front lines of many wars.
The castle was owned by the English King Richard the Lionheart between 1189 and 1199.
During the Hundred year War, control of Beynac flip flopped back and forth between the English and French.
From a cavernous window, the governing lord would proclaim to citizens gathered in the courtyard that they were French or English, basically telling them to deal with whatever way the wind was blowing.
The castle is protected by a double moat and several layers of walls to keep attackers out. The central keep, built in the 13th century, is the oldest part.
You can tour the Guard Hall, the State Room, the kitchen, and even the bedroom of Richard the Lionheart.
When you’re done touring, step out on the terrace to take in the breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. They are truly fit for a king!
For more info, you can check out my complete guide to visiting the Chateau de Beynac.
Pro Tips: You can scan a QR code for an informative and free audio guide. Tickets are 11.50 euros.
12:00 PM – Lunch
Enjoy lunch at one of the charming riverside restaurants in Beynac-et-Cazenac.
Or, reserve at La Petite Tonnelle. This is Bezanac’s best restaurant, serving up traditional Dordogne cuisine in a cozy, stony building.
Savor local specialties such as duck confit, foie gras, or a fresh salad.
1:30 PM – Explore the Village of Beynac-et-Cazenac
In places like Beynac, there’s really nothing besides the castle to tour. It’s just plain pretty and gives you a taste of village life.
So, spend some time wandering through the narrow, winding streets.
Admire the traditional stone houses, some of which date back to the medieval period. The roofs are made of stone — a Dordogne peculiarity – and are steeply pitched.
Visit local artisan shops and perhaps pick up a souvenir. I really loved the shop L’Esprit and picked up ceramics, wine, and souvenirs there.
3:00 PM – Visit Chateau de Castelnaud or Domme
Castlenaud
Take a short drive or a scenic walk to the nearby Chateau de Castelnaud.
This impressive castle could easily take up a whole chapter in a book on French history. It was involved in centuries of warfare.
The castle eventually fell into ruin. But it was saved and restored in 1996.
Today, the castle houses a museum of medieval warfare, offers fascinating exhibits, including a collection of weapons and armor.
You begin in the outer courtyard, and head into the keep surrounded by a curtain wall. You can admire the armor, weapons, catapults, and life size recreations of war machines in the artillery tower.
The curtain wall has a rampart walk, offering up stunning views of the Dordogne Valley.
Domme
Alternatively, you can visit the pretty Bastide town of Domme, only 20-25 minutes from Beynac.
Founded in 1281, Domme is another les plus beaux village known for its rich history, stunning views, and medieval architecture.
The town’s fortified gates, Porte des Tours and Porte del Bos, are impressive and well-preserved.
Domme features a typical bastide layout with a central square, Place de la Halle, surrounded by a grid of streets.
The square houses a 17th century market hall that hosts events and markets year-round.
Honey-colored stone houses, many from the 13th and 14th centuries, line the streets.
A unique attraction is the Grotte de Domme, natural caves filled with stalactites and stalagmites.
It’s located in the upper square and accessible by funicular. Guided tours are available.
5:30 PM – Drive to Belvès
After your visit to Chateau de Castelnaud, drive to the beautiful village of Belvès, which is about a 30 minute drive from Castelnaud.
Dating from the 11th century, the medieval village is known for its stony medieval architecture and charming atmosphere.
The town has seven towers, some of them bell towers.
Enjoy dinner at a local restaurant in Belvès. Choose a restaurant that offers regional dishes and a cozy setting to end your day.
For fine dining, check out Le Parfum Des Mets. You’ll have great food and views across the valley.
We also loved the wine and charcuterie at Planches & Plonk.
But you have to reserve well ahead even on a weekday! The owner is English, so you can call ahead.
Pro Tip: In lieu of Belves, you could also spend the evening in Sarlat-Caneda, a UNESCO town loaded with top notch restaurants. It’s just that Sarlat deserves more than an evening and Belvès is smaller
8:00 PM – Evening Stroll in Belvès
After dinner, take an evening stroll through the medieval streets of Belvès.
Explore the well-preserved architecture, including the 500 year old market hall and the fortified gates, and enjoy the peaceful ambiance of the village at night.
Tips For One Day In Beynac et Cazenac
How To Get There
Driving is the most convenient way to reach Beynac-et-Cazenac, especially if you plan to explore the surrounding area.
Beynac-et-Cazenac does not have its own train station. But you can take a train to the nearby station in Sarlat and taxi or Uber from there.
Once you are there, it’s pretty hilly and not so easy for everyone to get around. The streets aren’t entirely pedestrianized either.
You can park in paid lots at the base of the village near the river. There’s also a lot near the castle, but it fills up quickly.
Where To Stay
There aren’t any great hotels in Beynac. It’s too small.
I stayed in this amazing Air Bnb, which was like a mini castle, with exquisite grounds.
But, nearby, you can check out these other options:
Domaine du Château de Monrecour: Located in Saint-Vincent-de-Cosse, just 1.3 miles from Beynac, this hotel offers elegant rooms, two swimming pools, and beautiful surroundings.
Hôtel l’Abbaye: Located in Saint-Cyprien, about 13 miles from Beynac, this hotel features a seasonal outdoor swimming pool, private parking, and a garden.
If you want to stay in Sarlat-la-Caneda and day trip to Beynac, I recommend Plaza Madeleine & Spa offers elegant rooms, a beautiful outdoor pool, a spa, and a rooftop terrace with stunning views.
When To Visit
I would plan a visit in late spring or early fall. Any earlier or later and you might get some rain and chilly weather.
In the last two weeks of April, however, the Chateau de Beynac participates in the Château en Fête celebrations in the Dordogne.
During this festival, several chateaux open their doors to visitors, offering various animations and medieval shows. It’s a very popular event and a must-see for anyone interested in experiencing medieval life in France.
July and August will be very busy and the town may seem a tad Disney-fied then. So, I would avoid going then if you can.
I hope you’ve enjoyed my guide to what to do in Beynac-et-Cazenac in one day. You may find the other southern France travel guides useful:
- 10 day itinerary for southern France
- 1 week Dordogne itinerary
- Hidden gems in Provence
- Hilltop villages of the Luberon Valley
- Historic landmarks in southern France
- Beautiful villages in the Dordogne
- Beautiful villages in Occitanie
- One day in Avignon itinerary
- One day in Sarlat-la-Caneda
- One day in Toulouse itinerary
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