Fancy a medieval castle? Gravensteen Castle in Ghent might fit the bill. Or it might not.
“It’s a fake,” my travel partner moaned. “It’s an idealized version of a medieval castle, not a real one.”
Perched right in the center of the city, this dramatic looking fortress serves up equal parts history and hilarity.
That’s largely thanks to the brilliantly offbeat audio guide, which leans into dark humor, local lore, grisly stories, and delivers a generous dollop of sarcasm.
Torture chambers? Check. Cheeky tone? Check. Faux romantic backstory? Also check.
It’s a clever move. The museum is self-aware enough to poke fun at the romanticizing of the Middle Ages while placing you squarely inside a romanticized medieval castle.
Overview & Quick Tips
You can pre-book a ticket for the castle, and you should in high season. Plan to spend 1.5 to 2 hours visiting.
Highlights of a visit include:
- The Keep: Living quarters and panoramic views at the top.
- Torture Museum: A collection of medieval torture devices and details about the justice system of the past.
- Great Hall: Discover the grandeur of the medieval noble lifestyle and judicial proceedings.
- Interactive Displays: Engage with exhibits that bring history to life.
- Audio Guide: It’s a humorous and informative tour narrated by Flemish comedian Wouter Deprez.
- Illustrations: The illustrator Randall Casaer presents his idiosyncratic vision of a world of counts, crusaders, and courtly love.
The castle seemed like a very popular place for kids. And there’s a gift shop loaded with castle-themed merchandise that will have children larping in no time.
Due to its medieval structure, the castle has limited accessibility for wheelchairs and strollers. There are also no guard rails along the ramparts, so be careful! And the staircases can be steep, narrow, and spiraling.
Mini History Of Gravensteen Castle
The castle was built in 1180 by Count Philip of Alsace.
The rough hewn fortress wasn’t designed to protect the people of Ghent. No, it was meant to intimidate the independent-minded citizens.
The castle was inhabited only briefly by the counts of Flanders. By the 1300s, however, they decamped to more comfortable digs. The castle became obsolete as a noble residence.
Holy Roman Emperor Charles V took advantage. He turned it into a prison and administrative center for dispensing justice.
This came in 1540 when the citizens of Ghent refused to pay a huge tribute. In response, Charles personally came to Ghent to crush the rebellion.
And he did. He forced them to hand over cash, beg forgiveness, and then get down on their knees with nooses around their necks.
Today, you’ll see many allusions to the noose around town. There’s even a popular. beer names ‘t Stropke, which means the noose.
What To See At Gravensteen Castle
You enter through the imposing gatehouse, which leads into a large open courtyard that once housed various service buildings.
Creation Myth
With your audio guide, you’ll first hear the “creation myth” of Ghent. Legend holds that Count Baldwin fell in love with Judith, the comely daughter of King Charles the Bold.
Her father didn’t approve, as she was above his station. So, Baldwin abducted her.
Two years later, the king relented. He gave Baldwin land and that’s how Flanders was born. Baldwin basically slept his way to the top.
It’s a funny story, and seems to be both ridiculous and oddly insightful. Like it’s winking at you while laying out how the region invented itself, mythologized its own past, and turned a half ruined castle into a national symbol.
Keep
The keep, or donjon, is the oldest part of the castle. It served as a last line of defense and housed the most important rooms for the count and his household.
With its narrow spiral staircases, limited entrances, and elevated position, the keep was designed for defense. Attackers would have found it virtually impossible to gain entry.
Arrow slits and strong outer walls were impenetrable. Intruders could expect hot oil to be dumped down on their heads.
Inside, you’ll find the private quarters of the count, a medieval latrine, a chapel, and armory. These rooms were likely used for living, sleeping, and day-to-day administration.
Though the rooms are sparsely furnished today, their layout offers a clear sense of the castle’s austere lifestyle and military purpose.
You’ll also hear stories about the castle’s most famous resident, Philip of Alsace. He was a crusader and legendary warrior. He was away so often on military campaigns that he never had children.
One odd tale claims that Philip climbed the narrow staircases so frequently that his legs grew unusually long. According to legend, he even had to wear a skirt to accommodate them.
The armory displays an impressive mix of medieval weaponry, including swords, crossbows, and suits of armor. Some are authentic. Others are replicas.
Great Hall
This large room was used for official legal proceedings, trials, and administrative matters during the time of the Counts of Flanders.
Sentences were pronounced there. In a nasty bit of political theater, 17 people were executed here for refusing to pay taxes to the greedy Charles V.
Most executions, though, were carried out outside in a public square where justice could serve as a public deterrent.
Punishments were brutal and literal. Very eye-for-an-eye style.
If you were caught stealing, your hand would be cut off. If you libeled someone, off with your tongue.
Heresy was punished with burning at the stake. And adultery resulted in public shaming, with women getting the worst treatment.
Torture Chamber
This is one of the castle’s most popular, and grisliest, exhibits.
In the Middle Ages, torture was used not only to extract confessions from suspected heretics and criminals but also to punish the convicted before execution. Torturers had a brutal arsenal at their disposal.
One of the most infamous devices was the rack, designed to stretch the victim’s limbs until they dislocated or worse. Another was the finger screw, a metal clamp that slowly crushed fingers and toes with tightening bolts.
The Iron Maiden was a human-sized cabinet lined with spikes. It had small holes so torturers could jab prisoners with sharp implements from the outside. There was also a torture chair, entirely covered in iron spikes, where victims were strapped down and left for hours.
And then there was waterboarding, medieval-style. Jailers would pour water (and sometimes bodily fluids) down a prisoner’s throat. To avoid suffocation, the victim had to swallow, often leading to vomiting, intoxication, or death.
Ramparts and Battlements
At the tip top, you can walk along parts of the outer castle walls, which offer splendid scenic views of the city. And there are walls to stroll in the courtyard as well.
Along the way, you’ll see a stone latrine, which projected over the outer wall. It’s a peculiar feature, but shows how daily life was managed in a fortress setting.
With its narrow spiral staircases, limited entrances, and elevated position, the keep was designed for defense. Attackers would have found it very difficult to penetrate.
Arrow slits and strong outer walls made it nearly impenetrable. And hot oil could be tossed down on intruders.
Tips For Visiting Gravensteen Castle
Address: Sint-Veerleplein 11 9000 Ghent
Hours: Open daily from 10:00 am to 6:00 pm. Last admission at 4:40 pm.
Tickets:
- Adults: €13
- Groups (15+ people) & Teachers: €11
- Students (19–25 years): €8
- Youth (13–18 years): €2.70
- Children (under 12): Free
Is Gravensteen Worth Visiting?
I really enjoyed my visit, despite the reimagining of the castle. It was still fun.
The visual and audio guide brought the dry history and bare rooms to life. Plus, the views were pretty sweet, better than the Belfry of Ghent.
I hope you’ve enjoyed my guided to Gravensteen Castle. Pin it for later.
