Guide To Canterbury Cathedral: Murder, Glass & England’s First Gothic Giant

Canterbury Cathedral was the first English cathedral I ever fell for. It dominates the beautiful city and explains why it exists in the first place.

The cathedral is the oldest church in England and is the seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury, the church’s highest authority.

A church has stood on this site since the 6th century. The Normans replaced the early structure with a grand new building in the 11th century.

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In the 12th century, two of the era’s larger-than-life characters tangled there, Henry II and Archbishop Thomas Becket.

When Becket changed from luxury loving chancellor to ascetic defender of the church, assassins rid Henry of the meddlesome priest.

If you have time, book a behind-the-scenes tour of the cathedral. You can peek into the library at rare books and get a full history of this magnificent edifice. There’s so much to see it can be downright daunting!

>>> Click here to book a skip the line ticket

Canterbury Cathedral

Mini History

Building & Architecture

In 597, St. Augustine arrived in England to convert the heathens. He wasted no time establishing a church just inside the city walls. About 150 years later, Archbishop Cuthbert added a second building to the site, turning it into the seat of English Christianity.

The original Saxon structures didn’t survive the Normans though. After the Conquest, William the Conqueror burned everything down.

But he didn’t leave the ruins sitting. He quickly ordered a grand new cathedral to project Norman authority and ensure Canterbury outranked its northern rival, York.

A new quire was added in the 12th century. This was followed by the usual medieval sequence of disaster and rebuilding.

Fires led to redesigns rather than replacements. Each repair left another architectural layer — Romanesque bones, Gothic ambition, and Victorian patchwork all stitched together over centuries.

Henry II vs. Thomas Becket

Canterbury Cathedral is probably most famous for Thomas Becket, one time close friend and advisor to King Henry II. Henry appointed him Archbishop of Canterbury in 1162, assuming his old ally would help tighten royal control over the church.

That plan backfired spectacularly. Once he donned vestments, Becket stopped behaving like a courtier and started acting like an intransigent churchman.

He resisted Henry’s attempts to curb clerical privilege. And even, rather boldly, excommunicated some of the king’s key allies.

Henry was livid. Tantrums ensued.

Whether he actually shouted the famous line “Will no one rid me of this turbulent priest?” or something less theatrical, his meaning was clear enough.

painting depicting the murder of Thomas Becket by four knights

Four knights took the outburst as a royal nudge and rode to Canterbury. They confronted Becket in the cathedral on December 29, 1170, and killed him in the northwest transept.

Almost immediately, Becket became a martyr. Mourners gathered, relics were collected, and reports of miracles began.

Eager to salvage his reputation (and avoid excommunication), Henry staged a dramatic act of penance. He walked barefoot through the streets of Canterbury, wore a hair shirt, and let monks flog him at Becket’s tomb.

It was a Game of Thrones caliber walk of shame. Medieval PR at work.

Becket was canonized just three years later in 1173. Lightning speed by medieval standards.

cathedral facade

What To See At Canterbury Cathedral

Perimeter

Start by walking the grounds and taking in the exterior.

The cathedral complex is made up of three main parts: the cathedral itself, the ruins of Christ Church Priory, and the Archbishop’s Palace. The cathedral is the star, so give it most of your attention.

You’ll first face the Southwest Porch at the western end. Two towers frame it — Arundel Tower and St. Dunstan’s Tower, the latter housing the bells.

As you circle the building, the architecture starts telling its own story. You’ll spot pointed Gothic arches, rounded Romanesque arches on the quire, and the Trinity Chapel, which blends Norman heft with emerging Gothic style.

Great Cloister
Great Cloister garth

Continue around to the Corona Chapel. It’s a round structure built at the same time as Trinity and intended to house the relics of Thomas Becket.

You can also pause in the cloister garth, where monks once walked in silence. The fan vaulting around the quadrangle is one of the cathedral’s most beautiful exterior details.

As you continue the circuit, look for the Buttery Tower, the Water Tower, and ruins of the old monastic buildings that once fed, housed, and governed the cathedral community.

nave
nave

Interior

Nave

You enter the cathedral via the Southwest porch and come into the nave.

It was designed by Henry Yevele, the leading builder of the time and the architect of Westminster Palace in London.

It’s pure Perpendicular drama — long, tall, and designed to make your neck hurt from looking up. Slender columns shoot into vaulted arches, and a carved Gothic screen separates the nave from the choir.

vaulted ceiling

Stained Glass

Canterbury’s stained glass is one of its greatest treasures. Some panels date back to the 12th century, making them among the oldest surviving medieval windows in Europe.

Much of the glass survived the Reformation, neglect, wartime damage, and Victorian “improvements,” which is a miracle in itself.

The real showstopper is the Great South Window.

It fills the south wall of the nave with a vertical parade of biblical ancestors of Christ, starting with Adam and moving through figures like Noah, Abraham, and King David.

Great South Window
Great South Window

These figures were designed to connect Becket’s shrine and Canterbury itself to a sacred lineage.

In 2009, conservators discovered that parts of the window’s stonework were failing. The entire thing had to be dismantled, panel by panel, and sent off for conservation.

It took seven years to repair the structure and restore the glass. The window was reinstalled looking as if it had never left.

Except now it’s clean, stable, and no longer in danger of falling into the nave.

Trinity Chapel
Trinity Chapel

Trinity Chapel

Then, head to the Trinity Chapel at the east end. This is where Thomas Becket’s shrine once stood.

A single candle marks the spot. The shrine was once covered in gold, silver, and gemstones … before Henry VIII destroyed it in 1538 and helped himself to the treasure.

No one knows what happened to Becket’s remains.

The “Miracle Windows” in the chapel show scenes from Becket’s life, death, and the miracles credited to him. He’s not always pictured directly. Sometimes pilgrims and crutches do the talking.

Miracles stained glass window
stained glass in Trinity Chapel

The chapel also holds the very uncomfortable looking marble throne chair of the Archbishop of Canterbury.

The Ancestors of Christ windows line the side aisles of Trinity Chapel, flanking the spot where Becket’s shrine once stood. The oldest panels date from the mid 12th century. This makes them the oldest surviving stained glass panels in England — and some of the finest anywhere in Europe.

Nearby are the tombs of Henry IV, Joan of Navarre, and the Black Prince, Edward of Woodstock. Edward was a military celebrity in his day and the son of the famed Edward III.

His gilded copper effigy shows him in full armor with hands in prayer. It’s considered one of the finest surviving medieval effigies. A replica of his black armor is displayed next to it.

The Martyrdom

Thomas Becket was murdered in the northwest transept of the cathedral, now known as The Martyrdom.

As I mentioned above, four knights cornered him there and delivered a series of blows, the last slicing off his skull. They believed they were carrying out the will of Henry II.

A 15th century stained glass panel depicts the moment of the attack. A modern metal sculpture marks the murder site, with four suspended swords symbolizing the killers.

Despite later renovations, the original floor where Becket fell remains in place, adding to the unease of the space.

stained glass panel depicting the murder of Becket
stained glass in the Corona Chapel
Corona Chapel

Corona Chapel

The Saints and Martyrs Chapel—also known as the Corona Chapel—sits at the far eastern tip of Canterbury Cathedral.

It was built in the 12th century to house the “crown” of Thomas Becket, a fragment of his skull taken after his murder in 1170. Along with the great shrine in Trinity Chapel, it formed the heart of Becket’s medieval pilgrimage cult.

Today, the space has a new identity. It’s dedicated to modern Christian martyrs, with memorials to figures like Archbishop Oscar Romero and Dietrich Bonhoeffer.

The chapel has a rounded layout and a contemplative atmosphere. It quietly connects Becket’s story of political and religious defiance to acts of witness and martyrdom in the modern era.

Quire
Quire

Quire

The quire is the very heart of the church. The Quire screen, commissioned around 1405, separates the nave from the clergy stalls.

Look closely and you’ll see carved figures of English kings. Essentially, a medieval royal roll call in stone.

During the Middle Ages, the screen marked the divide between clergy and lay worshippers. This distinction disappeared after the Reformation.

The Quire itself has beautifully carved choir stalls with misericords, and the north aisle features excellent stained glass. From here, you can also see the high altar and the approach to the Trinity Chapel.

pointy arches in the Great Cloister
Great Cloister

Great Cloister

Just behind the Martyrdom is a door to the Great Cloister. It’s easy to miss and looks like you’re not supposed to touch it. You are — push it open.

The cloister was the monks’ main thoroughfare, connecting the church to the Chapter House, dormitories, and refectory. The covered walkways wrap around a central garth and are lined with stone benches.

Look up and around as you walk.

The vaulted ceilings are decorated with carved animals, foliage, and heraldic shields tucked into the bosses and corners. Some are original, others are Victorian replacements.

stained glass image of Henry VIII in the Chapter House
Henry VIII

Chapter House

From there, you can usually access the Chapter House. It’s the largest surviving one in England and was where the monks held meetings.

A huge stained glass window depicts 21 figures from the cathedral’s history. If you look closely, you’ll see the swaggering image of Henry VIII, made famous by his Holbein portrait.

Crypt

Take the steps down to the crypt, the oldest part of the cathedral. It dates back to the 11th century and feels completely different from the soaring Gothic above.

It’s a stone forest of Romanesque pillars and low arches, built for stability, not spectacle. Some areas were later reworked, including a striking 14th century fan vaulted ceiling.

fan-vaulted ceiling in the crypt
crypt

In St. Gabriel’s Chapel, you can still see fragments of 12th century wall paintings. Faint figures and patches of color survived by chance more than planning.

Part of the crypt now functions as a small museum space, with medieval stonework and architectural remnants on display.

Don’t miss the Chapel of Our Lady of the Undercroft, located in center of the crypt. It was first built in the 12th century and later refitted in the 14th.

Unlike the rougher Romanesque sections, this chapel feels more finished, with carved stonework and traces of its former decoration.

For centuries it was used for private worship by the monks and later by royalty. Even the Black Prince is said to have prayed there.

fan vaulted ceiling of the bell tower
fan-vaullted ceiling ot the bell tower

From the south side of the crypt, take the stairs back up to the Quire. As you climb, look up.

The fan-vaulted ceiling of the Bell Harry Tower is directly overhead, and it’s a stunner.

It was completed in the late 15th century and is one of the cathedral’s most impressive structural flourishes.

Great Cloister
Great Cloister

Practical Information for Canterbury Cathedral

Address: 11 The Precincts, Canterbury. Entrance is via Christ Church Gate.

Hours:

10:00 am to 5:00 pm. On Sunday, the cathedral is open from 11:30 am to 5:00 pm. But between 11:30 and 12:30, access is limited to the cathedral grounds and the shop. The main cathedral opens at 12:30.

You may want to visit for Choral Evensong, a traditional Anglican evening service combining scripture, prayer, and choral music sung by the Cathedral Choir.

Evensong typically takes place daily, but the exact time depends on the day:

  • Monday–Friday: 5:30 PM
  • Saturday & Sunday: 3:15 PM

These times apply most of the year, though occasionally services shift for feast days, special events, or choir breaks.

high altar

How To Get To Canterbury:

The high speed train leaves from St. Pancras station in London and deposits you at Canterbury West station.

From there, It’s about a 10–12 minute walk to the Cathedral and central pedestrian area. There’s a small taxi stand as well.

You can also book a guided tour from London.

Tickets: £18-21 depending on the season.

News Flash: On October 3, 2025, the UK government announced that Dame Sarah Mullally has been nominated to succeed Justin Welby as Archbishop of Canterbury—the first woman appointed to the role.

Website

stained glass window of Thomas Becket

I hope you’ve enjoyed my guide to Canterbury Cathedral. You may find these other UK travel guides useful:

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