Guide To The Overlooked Forum Boarium In Rome

In grand old Rome, the Roman Forum gets all the love. It and its friends — the forums of Trajan, Augustus and the like — get a lot of love.

And so they should. Their buildings and monuments tell great stories of Roman heros and gods shining down their protection from heaven.

But they don’t tell the whole story. In fact, there’s another forum just down the road that is also important in the history of Ancient Rome: Forum Boarium.

Whereas its more famous counterparts are named for the great leaders of Rome, this forum is named after … cattle.

What Was The Forum Boarium?

Mini History & Purpose

Rome’s mastery of the world was by no means always assured. When it was founded, Rome was just another city on a hill.

But Rome was well-situated and had a geographic advantage. The hills were defensible and they had quick access to the ocean via the Tiber River. Yet Rome was still inland enough to be protected from pirates or coastal raiders.

As the city grew more powerful, it became a hub for commercial activity. This is how the Forum Boarium was born.

Rome’s commerce dates back to the early days of Rome, likely as far back as the 8th century BC, when the city was still only a collection of settlements.

It was the true economic heart of Rome. It was where the docks were located. Grain and livestock poured into the city to feed the growing populace.

Granaries were there to store food for emergencies. Goods from all over the world made their way to Rome through the docks. In many ways, Forum Boarium was the gateway to Rome.

The Cloaca Maxima, or Great Sewer, is one of Rome’s most impressive engineering marvels and ran through the forum.

It was built back in the 6th century BC during the reign of the Etruscan kings. This ancient sewer system drained the marshy land around the Forum Boarium, keeping it flood-free and usable for trade.

Temples

There were two main buildings in the forum, the Temple of Hercules Victor (the round one) and the Temple of Portunus (the rectangular one).

Hercules, of course, was the legendary hero of superhuman strength. His temple, called the “Round Temple,” is the oldest surviving marble building in Rome.

Hercules was chosen because the traders and merchants worshipped him as a protector. Plus, according to Roman legend, Hercules defeated the fire-breathing giant Cacus on the very grounds of the forum.

Built in the Greek architectural style, this 2nd century BC temple features a circular plan surrounded by 20 Corinthian columns that once supported a terracotta-tiled roof.

The temple once housed the famous Mouth of Truth (Bocca della Verità). The exact purpose of the Bocca della Verità is debated. But it’s thought to have been a drain cover or part of a fountain due to its circular design and the hole in its mouth for water to pass through.

Pro Tip: Today, the Mouth of Truth is housed in the portico of the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin, a medieval church across the street from the forum. It’s become famous as a tourist attraction. Legend holds that it will bite off the hand of anyone who tells a lie while placing their hand in its mouth. Expect long lines for this lie detector test.

Portunus was the god of doors, gateways, locks, and livestock. This was an important area for a temple to this god. The Romans needed him here.

It dates back to the 4th or 3rd century BC, with significant renovations made in the 1st century BC. This makes the temple a prime example of the transitional style between Etruscan and Greek architectural traditions.

This rectangular temple features Ionic columns supporting a high podium and a front-facing portico. It’s an elegant yet practical design.

Both temples survived the ravages of time because they were repurposed into Christian churches later.

Forum For The Working Man

Forum Boarium was the forum for the working man, the longshoreman of Ancient Rome. This was the area where Rome was fed and clothed, where good from luxuries to basic necessities worked their way into the economy.

It seems appropriate that the first gladiator games in Rome were fought here three centuries before the Colosseum opened.

While Roman armies marched over land, Roman merchants plied the water of the Mediterranean. They chased the deal, the next fortune.

Often it was merchants, not armies, who made first contact with foreigners. Roman soldiers stayed close to the their barracks.

But the traders brazenly went forward into the unknown. Indeed, Rome’s primary business was business, not war.

As you walk around, consider what it took to build the Roman Empire. More than armies, the workers and merchants of the Forum Boarium deserve their share of credit too.

Baroque fountain in front of the Temple of Hercules Victor

And perhaps a tip of the hat to Portunus. While perhaps not the most glamorous god in the Roman pantheon, he did his job well.

The Forum Boarium is located at Piazza della Bocca della Verità. It’s free to walk around that area and get a good look. But the temples are closed to the public.

You can combine a visit to Forum Boarium with a visit to the Santa Maria in Cosmedin, the Arch of Janus, and Case Romane del Celio.

If you’re planning a route, consider walking along the Via di San Gregorio, which connects the area near the Colosseum to Aventine Hill, passing several iconic landmarks along the way.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my guide to the Forum Boarium. You may find the other Rome travel guides useful:

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